escape collage 2014-2015

Camp Puesco (October 1st – December 31st)

Going into our 3rd season, <ESCAPE> will continue to offer rafting and SUP tours, however our focus is gravitating towards whitewater kayak clinics and guided kayak trips. We began the Camp Puesco program in November of 2013 in order to provide a full-service, all-inclusive kayak vacation for those looking to get off of the beaten path, while improving skills and challenging themselves on harder whitewater with the safety and knowledge of an experienced guide staff.

Stoked to be in Puescocity!

Stoked to be in Puescocity!

What makes the program unique in Chile (and the world) is our location.  Rather than hanging out with a bunch of other gringos and tourists, we are able to share the cultural experience of immersing ourselves into the Chilean Patagonian lifestyle with the Quintun family, staying in their hand-built riverside cabins, and we have the opportunity to share with the surrounding community of native, Mapuche people who are friendly enough to welcome us into their mountain paradise.  Guests not only kayak on world class whitewater, but they experience real, rural South American culture.  We put a lot of energy into providing the most fun on and off of the water, with healthy and abundant meals, all while keeping a friendly, down-to-earth vibe that fits well with the environment and with the local people.

World Class Academy enjoys a day of paddling and socializing with the local community.

World Class Academy enjoys a day of paddling and socializing with the local community.

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The cabin resort in Puesco is located just 12 miles upriver from the town of Curarrehue, but it is a real mountain escape which offers all guests the opportunity to truly unplug from the “system” and the hustle of their daily lives while they plug-in to the power of the natural surroundings.  The cabins are known in the local and international backpacker community for their position at the base of the craggy granite spires of the Cerro de Las Peinetas, one of the sacred mountains of the region, and for their proximity to the trails of the alpine wilderness of the Villarrica National Park.  The cabins are known in the kayak community for their convenient position at the take-out of the challenging Class V section of the Upper Río Puesco, featured in the Whitewater Grand Prix, and at the put-in of the Class IV-V Lower Río Puesco.

Dane Jackson reaches for a fast line through the crux of “Tres Troncos” during the Grand Prix

Roll practice at Puesco

Roll practice at Puesco

Guests are not limited to paddling such demanding whitewater.  We can lap the Class III rapids next to the cabins, we utilize the riverside swimming pool for roll practice, we do boof practice on a perfect Class III-IV creek training run on the Lower Lower Puesco just minutes downstream, and we are the closest outfitter to the magical canyon of the Río Maichin, which has several sections of fun Class II and arguably the most beautiful stretch of Class IV whitewater in Chile.  For those looking to push their game, we have the Puesco by our side, we are just 25 minutes from the world famous Palguin, 25 minutes from the put-in of the mighty Upper Trancura and 45 minutes from the granite slides of the Río Nevado.  There are dozens of other runs from Class II-V that are all within a an hour or two from Puesco.

Paul Butler routs down the Maichin, deep in the heart of the sacred canyon

Daniel Urriza soaks in the power of the Maichin

Daniel Urriza soaks in the power of the Maichin

Camp Fuy (January 2nd – March 31st)

One might ask, “Puesco sounds too good to be true!  Why would you ever leave?”  Well, unfortunately the rivers around Puesco and Curarrehue tend to dry up in the Chilean summer months (January-March).  If there was good water all summer, I wouldn’t move for anything, but the lower levels make kayak vacations less exciting with less variety, so why not follow the water?  The Río Fuy has long been on “the map” in the kayaking world as one of the best kayak destinations in Chile, but surprisingly there is currently no infrastructure tailored to the traveling kayaker’s needs, and <ESCAPE> is about to change all of that in January of 2015.  We plan to be the first kayak school and guide service on the Río Fuy.

The "Class Fun!" Lower Fuy

The “Class Fun!” Lower Fuy

We are going to take the Camp Puesco model to the Fuy valley, where we will offer full-service guided trips and clinics, as well as a la carte lodging, boat rentals and shuttles for more independent travelers.  The Fuy is really the ultimate winter getaway for whitewater enthusiasts from the northern hemisphere because it is fed by two large lakes which keep the river pumping at a healthy flow all summer long.  The lake-fed river runs warmer than most with its transparent, calypso-colored waters plunging through the Huilo-Huilo Reserve at the base of the glaciated Volcan Choshuenco.

Not a bad place to chill out...

Not a bad place to chill out…

In the spring months while we are at Puesco, the Fuy runs big, and the high volume limits paddlers to the powerful waves of the Class III-IV section of the Lower Fuy.  However, as it drops into summer flow, the Fuy’s Upper section with its marquee 25’ waterfall turns into a playground for skilled river runners, and the Fuy’s Middle section challenges even the world’s best kayakers with its committing canyon full of complex, multi-stage rapids and a must-run 40 foot falls. The Lower Fuy provides a safe but exciting training ground for intermediate paddlers looking to get more comfortable with higher volume river running, and the Lower Lower Fuy is an excellent classroom for the novice paddler.  Boaters of all skill levels will be challenged and entertained by the variety of whitewater the Río Fuy has to offer.

Fede Medina show us the line on “Lion Falls” of the Upper Fuy

Pucon local, Rodrigo Tuschner, gets "tits deep" in the calypso waters of the Middle Fuy

Pucon local, Rodrigo Tuschner, gets “tits deep” in the calypso waters of the Middle Fuy

The nearby Río San Pedro is known as the “Mini Futaleufu,” and this classic run is a short drive from our base.  Just 2.5 hours from Curarrehue and 3 hours from Puerto Montt, the Fuy is also a great jumping off point for the rivers of Pucon, those of the Lago Ranco region as well as those to the south into the Lakes District of Patagonia.

Patrick Baird fueling up with hierba mate between boofs

Patrick Baird fueling up with hierba mate between boofs

 Staying true to our mission to support the local community, and with our commitment to provide a real Chilean immersion experience for our guests, we will be basing out of a large house on a Mapuche family farm, conveniently located halfway down the Lower Fuy and walking distance from the lakeside village of Choshuenco.  Here we will offer guest-house style shared bedrooms and camping and private cabins for lodging options.  There is even a ski resort open during the summer on the glaciers of the nearby volcano for those who want to shred a few corn turns before or after a river trip.

Happy days on the Fuy

Happy days on the Fuy

Contact Us for more information or to make a reservation.  ESCAPE 🙂

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A gentle haze lifts off of the flat, valley floor as the morning sun brings light and heat after a cold night.  I can even see the steam swirling up and out my mate.  The typical birdsongs of the campo en la manana break the stillness.  It’s still too early for the wind.  Dark shadows on the mountainsides to the east and fluorescent shades of green to the west, more sunlight pours into the kitchen as I stare off to the south at the balding north face of Volcan Lanin.  Hot water in the kettle on the woodstove keeps the hierba warm and my belly warmer.  Buenos dias Curarrehue!

March, like September in the northern hemisphere, means a time of transition for families and thus for tourism as well.  As kids go back to school, it is generally said that “summer is over.”  Seasonally, as far as the earth is concerned, the days are a little shorter and the nights a little cooler.  There might be a chance of rain over the weekend.  However, summer isn’t really over yet and the weather is typically amazing this time of year.  So, the locals in a tourist town rejoice as there is less traffic and chaos, and the world around them literally quiets down.

As I sit here and sip on my mate, I can’t help but to smile and be grateful to live in an area here in Chile where the tourism is not necessarily defined by summer vacation or by weather.  Sure, it is more likely that I will have a family rafting trip in the middle of summer than any other time of year, but Curarrehue is not the kind of place that triples in population for two months of the year.  Those in search of this year-round calm and peace do seek it out as a destination.  The daily tourism here flows with the rhythm of the people who pass through on their way to and from Argentina and Pucon.  Most come here for the culture and for the organic, flavorful Mapuche cuisine.  [For those who don’t know, Curarrehue is a place where the people celebrate their indigenous roots and generously share their traditions with outsiders in a very respectful and responsible manner.]

I do my best with <ESCAPE> to provide recreational opportunities for these visitors with the same respect, so that, in addition to sharing the culture with local families and trekking through the mountains, people can also experience the landscape from the perspective of a living, flowing river.  In this sense, the river is a liquid trail, a natural trail with a natural force of motion, its ancient path formed by lava and floods, and the raft or SUP or kayak are like magic carpets, facilitating the ride through native forest and past towering peaks.  Kingfisher and Ibis fly closely above, ducks float upon and trout and salmon swim below the crystalline waters fed by the glaciers of the volcanos.

As a result of its natural, untamed flow, this also means there is a natural cycle of water volume.  As a river outfitter, the amount of water is just as important as the amount of people around to ride it.  The mighty Rio Trankurra is born here in Curarrehue.  It is a powerful place with powerful gradient for kayakers to ride in the winter and spring.  This also means we are higher up in the watershed, and when the rain stops and the snowmelt is over, the river levels drop here quickly.  If we don’t have a wet and snowy winter, we don’t have much water in the summer months.  For this reason, I only offered the guided kayak trips with <ESCAPE> Camp Puesco in November and December of 2013, because I wanted to offer the highest quality experience with the best flows.  Speaking for all of those who were involved, including the guests, it was awesome.  We paddled an incredible diversity of rivers, shared with the local community and enjoyed the true disconnection and escape of Don Lorenzo Quintun’s cabin resort on the banks of the Rio Puesco.  Without a doubt, <ESCAPE> Camp Puesco will continue for the 2014 season in November and December.

The big news – <ESCAPE> will now be offering a mobile guide service in order to follow the water.  Rather than sit around and wait for rain here, we will keep the boats floating down different streams. In addition to Camp Puesco in November and December, destinations for the 2015 summer season (January and February, March??) will be the Rio Gol Gol and the Rio Fuy.  What does this mean?  We will be offering a Camp Puesco-style service, complete with local community integration, cabin lodging, food, transportation, boat rental and professional guides with a base in two more of Chile’s best paddling destinations.  These are two of my favorite rivers, and they both offer a steady summertime flow and a unique experience for traveling kayakers.  Neither currently have any services for kayakers, so the idea is to provide more access for boaters while supporting the local economies.  Dates and details to come.  I just took another two-day trip to the Fuy, and I am already daydreaming about crashing down its turquoise water!

My thermos is empty, the sun beats down from overhead and the morning haze has lifted.  The stillness of the countryside penetrates these walls, and I feel the need to get outside.  When the rains come I’ll take my kayak and ride its flow, but for now I want to run to the little creek across the dirt road and jump in its cold waters and swim beneath the falls.  I can’t wait to share more of these liquid trails.

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